A Wild and Beautiful Ride Through Ireland

OH Ireland, you're such a beauty!
OH Ireland, you’re such a beauty!
The movie version of my trip to Ireland would be most similar to one of my all-time favs, Thelma & Louise minus the [SPOILER] tragic end where our heroines dive off the cliff and sadly no shirtless appearance by Brad Pitt.  I met my friend Amy in Dublin on a Sunday night and like our counterparts, Susan Sarandon and Geena Davis, we were ready to have a fun girl’s night out without any of the bad parts. We had a fabulous meal at the Winding Stair (thanks Katie for the awesome recommendation!) – it was my first sort-of fancy meal (“fancy” meaning it was a $20 entree) and I had the best smoked haddock with cream sauce (you’re not dieting in Ireland), mashed potatoes (obvs) and Duvel, one of my favorite but dangerous Belgian beers at 8.5% alcohol, causing the waiter to warn, “you’ll only need one of these” (he obviously doesn’t know how I roll.) Actually, he was right, I felt pretty drunk after one, but that didn’t stop us from having half pints of Guinness — my new obsession — at Temple Bar and listening to Irish tunes (which amazingly Amy knows all of the words). And in just two hours of being here, Ireland you’ve already lived up to your fun-loving and friendly reputation.

A gorgeous pedestrian bridge in Dublin.
A gorgeous pedestrian bridge in Dublin.
An important part of the Irish experience is an appreciation of Guinness, it's gorgeous color and taste and I can proudly say that I practiced this many times during my trip.
An important part of the Irish experience is an appreciation of Guinness, it’s gorgeous color and taste and I can proudly say that I practiced this many times during my trip.
Temple Bar, a popular spot in Dublin for drinks, food and Irish mayhem.
Temple Bar, a popular spot in Dublin for drinks, food and Irish mayhem.
Amy’s one of my closest friends from that crazy time in my life when I was a Peace Corps volunteer and lived in Ukraine; shot vodka like it was water (no chaser); spoke Russian with a dark and brooding accent; I had a dozen jobs volunteering with tourism, teens, seniors, and women because even under the oppression of a former Soviet state whose people patiently wait out 9 months of the most unforgiving and darkest winters, I still wanted to be an American optimist and overachiever. Amy’s the Louise of our duo. She’s logistics and logic, sometimes unexpectedly angry but always has a huge heart and is often the smartest person in the room and  the most well traveled (she’s been to EVERY country in Europe except for a couple that I didn’t even know were actual countries). Amy’s been to Dublin a couple of times before so she had a great plan (augmented by my favorite American Irish lass Adrienne) of what we should see in the 3 days we had together so she rented a car and we were off!

Thelma & Louise the happier Irish sequel
Thelma & Louise the happier Irish sequel
So we had a 3 day road trip around the south and west of Ireland and in typical Amy style, it was incredibly efficient without losing the best sights and we made time for a bit of tourism but more for fun. Our first overnight was in the Dingle Peninsula, near the south coast and from what Amy and her pal and travel writer Rick Steves says, is a mini version of the Ring of Kerry with far fewer tour buses and people. The actual town of Dingle is just as its name suggests, cute, quaint and makes you giggle just saying the word. And the peninsula and surrounding landscape are quite beautiful. There’s something about all of that rain that makes everything in Ireland look so many variations of green. We stayed about 10km just outside of Dingle and had the most ridiculous exchange with my Airbnb host Padraig, who despite multiple attempts to get the actual address of the home would only give me gems like COORDINATES to put into my GPS or Sat Nav that we didn’t have in our sweet VW rental. And when I plugged those coordinates into Google Maps, it said I needed to go to Manilla, Philippines. This was funny for the first few hours this was happening, Amy and I could giggle it off with things like “remember those crazy times in Ukraine like when you got in trouble for the way you danced? ‘Your hips moved too much’ [this was according to Vadim our PC language and culture teacher who later became a great pal]. Note, this is one of the reasons that I am the Thelma of this movie. And thanks to Amy’s incredible sense of direction and ability to covert metric numbers on the fly and my ability to curse and crack jokes, we found it in the dark.

Driving the Dingle
Driving the Dingle and hoping we find our guest house no thanks to Padraig’s coordinates to Manilla.
The absolutely adorable town of Dingle
The absolutely adorable town of Dingle
Dingle, not just a fun word to say.
Dingle, not just a fun word to say.
Driving the Dingle and sharing the tiny, winding roads with big ass tour buses.
Driving the Dingle and sharing the tiny, winding roads with big ass tour buses.
The next stop was Galway a smaller city on the west coast where we had a fun night of dinner, pubs with live music and stayed in an adorable B&B called Rusheen Bay just outside the city by the Galway Bay and its beach. 

One of the things about being on the road that hasn’t been the most awesome is sleep, or more precisely the lack thereof.  I’ve battled insomnia for years on and off and it’s most often due to stress, it’s another cool thing I’ve inherited from my mom. And you’d think all of this travel and incredible experiences would mean I get the best sleep of my life, right? Sadly, no, I’m averaging about 3-4 hours a night. What do I have to be stressed about? It could be happy anxiety when I know I’m going to a new place, or just arrived in one and trying to convince myself the “world is my bed” and “this mattress is as comfortable as my mattress” or “don’t be tied to worldly possessions such as high thread count sheets”. But I think the real anxiety is about the fact that although I am on a trip of a lifetime, the rest of the world and everyone I care about who is in it are dealing with their own stuff that includes the good and also the not so good. It’s so hard to hear sad news from home and be far away, but I also feel guilty because I feel relieved to be away from it and then I add more guilt on top of that because that makes me feel selfish. So I woke up after a not restful 3 hours of sleep and decided to go on an early morning walk on the beach before we got back in the car. During my walk,  I saw some people swimming in the freezing water including some seriously jacked older ladies who were probably in their 60s but looked like Olympic swimmers and I listened to Katy Perry’s “Rise” and I cried. At first I cried because I thought how unfair it is that I am having the time of my life and feeling so grateful for this, but then there are people I love who are struggling and feeling rundown by life. We are at polar ends of the emotional spectrum and I just wished that I could share the joy that I’ve been feeling since I’ve started this whole thing with them, that I would do it in a heartbeat and that I wished this feeling could be felt by everyone I love because don’t we all deserve to feel this kind of joy and hope? The walk didn’t answer my questions, but it did make me feel a little better and for those of us who believe in signs, some dolphins were swimming and jumping in the same direction as my walk and lead me all the way to the end of my walk (yup, that made me cry too).

Amy and I had a great Italian dinner in Galway aka home of aggressive seagulls. Here she catches me trying not to be sketched out by one.
Amy and I had a great Italian dinner in Galway aka home of aggressive seagulls. Here she catches me trying not to be sketched out by one.
A sunrise walk along Galway Bay where I was escorted by a kind dolphin
A sunrise walk along Galway Bay where I was escorted by a kind dolphin
Before we headed back to Dublin, Amy took us through Connemara, which turned out to be my favorite part of the trip. We were lucky to see Connemara in both its dark and haunted phase and then all green and blue magnificent in the sun. And thanks to Louise’s ability to navigate without the internet and her aggressive American driving through the tiny, winding roads, we got to see the whole glorious pass and she’s a BEAUTY. There were sheep everywhere, on the expansive fields, on the sides of mountains, a sight I never get sick of seeing especially when these sheep are like Spider-Man climbing perpendicular to the ground and looking fucking adorable doing it! There are lakes, wild flowers, mountains, rocks and green and yellow fields galore. We stopped for a quick bite and I got to chat with an Irish gentleman I’m pretty sure was flirting with me and was at least 80 years old.  He wanted to know where I was from and told me that you need “good rain shoes up here. I was stuck in my house for 3 days once because of the rain” as he stared with concern at my loafers.
The dark side of Connemara
The dark side of Connemara
And Connemara in the sunlight
And Connemara in the sunlight
My obsession with these guys in Connemara was so intense I wanted to buy anything with these cute sheep on them.
My obsession with these guys in Connemara was so intense I wanted to buy anything with these cute sheep on them.
We spent one last night in Dublin before Amy was to leave for Scotland and I would be off to Amsterdam the following day. So we ended the way we started, with good Irish food, music, Guinness and more laughs about PC Ukraine. I stayed one more day and was lucky enough to meet up with my pal Rob from XM to SXM days who was there with his gal Amy and her brother and sister-in-law. I went to the Teeling Whiskey Tour with them and pretended I was paying attention to the tour but our guide with his mind blowing hotness (plus hot Irish accent) was just too much and when this movie is made, he will be cast as Brad Pitt’s character. After the whiskey, we decided to stop by the “oldest pub in Dublin” for a beer and I had an exciting run in with Santa, who must’ve been taking a much-needed break of his own.

We hit some great pubs and caught fun live Irish music our last night in Dublin. Thank you, Amy (my Louise) for an amazing road trip.
We hit some great pubs and caught fun live Irish music our last night in Dublin. Thank you, Amy (my Louise) for an amazing road trip.
This is the tour guide at Teeling Distillery who will be cast as my Brad Pitt.
This is the tour guide at Teeling Distillery who will be cast as my Brad Pitt.
Santa could also be a possible love interest candidate.
Santa could also be a possible love interest candidate.
Thanks Ireland for a great time and for Connemara one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen. And special shout out to Amy/Louise for taking us on a wild, fun and unforgettable ride.

Scotland IS Magical

Ahhhhhh the sunsets in Edinburgh.
Ahhhhhh the sunsets in Edinburgh.
I almost lumped in Scotland with my London post, but that would have been a major disservice to a country that has a history of fiercely fought independence and a spirit to match. Scotland is absolutely breathtaking — the landscape, the architecture, the colors are some of the greenest and greyest I’ve ever seen.  And as if that’s not enough to convince you about Scotland’s awesomeness, did you know their national animal is the UNICORN?! That strikes deep in this child of the ’80s  whose favorite sweatshirt of all-time is the rainbow colored unicorn with glittery horn and still obsessed with the unicorns in that wacky film Legend with Tom Cruise.  Scots have a great sense of humor blending warmth and sarcasm, their accents are probably my favorite to date, can sometimes be difficult to understand, but it is always a pleasure to listen. My time in Scotland was spent meeting up with old friends (my college roomie Asha and my friend Amy’s mom Irina), making new friends and feeling an incredibly deep satisfaction with my time alone.

View from my amazing room at Igor's. If you go to Edinburgh and want a unique experience, stay here.
View from my amazing room at Igor’s. If you go to Edinburgh and want a unique experience, stay here.
I started in Edinburgh, the gorgeous capital city and stayed in New Town at an Airbnb hosted by my new pal Igor. Only in a city as old as Edinburgh could a part town that was built in the 18th century be called “New Town”. Climbing a shitload of stairs within the building and eventually to my room, I was rewarded with the most magnificent view of the city and beautiful church from my bedroom window. I’d spend every night that I was there staring outside of that window and each time stood in awe as I was mesmerized by the slow, luxurious sunset after 9pm.  Igor is an artist who is mostly focused on documentaries, but has a natural curiosity about everything from history, carpentry, design, macrobiotic diets and much more. I have a natural soft spot for artists because of my sister Sylvia whose artist’s mind makes her equally passionate about 3D modeling to the differences in paper textures, as she is about breeding pet crawfish (this is a real example so if anyone has an interest in a pet crawfish, please don’t hesitate to ask me about this).

That's Arthur's Seat behind the small area of town.
That’s Arthur’s Seat behind the small area of town.
Two of my favorite days in Edinburgh involved starkly contrasting experiences. The first was going on a couple of “walks” in the city. These “walks” are really a misleading term because they involve some serious and treacherous climbs up these massively mountainous hills that formed after volcanic activity. I did two of the most famous walks in the same day, a miscalculation on my “no planning necessary and be spontaneous” part that had me climbing over 1100 feet that day. But I’m so happy that I not only climbed up Calton Hill, but followed it up by the much more challenging Arthur’s Seat climb because that kind of physical exertion when rewarded by astounding views makes you feel like a goddamn SUPERHERO. There were moments during the Arthur’s Seat climb when I would stare at the completely vertical, unstable and rocky trail and think, “I don’t think I can actually do this. I’m not strong enough. I’m in terrible shape. Why didn’t I work out more before I left NYC? OMG, my knees are going to collapse and some kind stranger is going to have to carry me down or Edinburgh rescue will have to send a mule up to get me off this MF mountain.” But then I decided to take the climb up with the way approach I think we should be moving forward in life: one strong step at a time and not too focused on how much longer it takes to get to the finish. And after I expended as much sweat and fear as possible, I made it to the top and I high-fived myself.

Ruins at the top of Calton Hill.
Ruins at the top of Calton Hill.
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Monument atop Calton Hill. And yes, climbed to the top of that bad boy too.
Holyrod Park leading to Arthur's Seat
Holyrod Park leading to Arthur’s Seat
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Sweaty satisfaction on Arthur’s Seat.
Some gorgeousness coming down from Holyrod
Some gorgeousness coming down from Holyrod
My other favorite day was spent on a spontaneous art tour with Igor and his friends in the city. I was lucky enough to get to Edinburgh right at the beginning of the famous Fringe Festival (for those unaware it’s one of the largest international arts and cultural festivals in the world). But Igor wanted us to go take the lesser known and free Art Festival tour so he, a lovely Lithuanian musician named Zurida and Pat his friend from St. Andrews University all followed along. While the art tour itself was fine
but the real fun was after when Igor who has a deep pride and enthusiasm for the city wanted to take us on what I would call the “Detour Tour”. The Detour Tour included pit stops for Thai food, beers, a visit to a bar where you can literally just lay down while having your drinks (formerly a brothel so yuck, I didn’t lay there), a visit to a tiny secret garden (possibly trespassing on private property), Igor’s attempt to get inside the city morgue (we were denied and I was relieved) and the best was a visit to Pat’s family in their beautiful home where we had dinner and drinks. We were originally just dropping Pat off as he was visiting his dad and stepmom and siblings from South Africa, but the Detour Tour lasted much longer withhis parents generously offering us wine, dinner and a hilarious and lively conversation about everything from Brexit to Trump (I’ve become an international anti-Trump apologist being asked in every country about how this could happen), travel, how Pat’s dad went to school with Tony Blair (whom pretty much every British person seems to dislike immensely), Pat’s teenage brother who looks like one of the leads in One Direction or whomever is the most popular Brit teen boy band talked to me about how he doesn’t want to visit the US even though he likes Americans because he can’t drink alcohol which is something he’s done responsibly with his family and friends since 14. There were really no topics off limit. This was a gorgeous, smart, connected, well traveled and hilarious family and by the time we left, a little buzzed on wine and excellent conversation, I wanted to be adopted.

Super host and new friend Igor
Super host and new friend Igor
Highlight of the Detour Tour was visiting this awesome family.
Highlight of the Detour Tour was visiting this awesome family.
In Edinburgh, you walk through all of these cool dark alleys with great names like Tol
In Edinburgh, you walk through all of these cool dark alleys with great names like Tol
While I was in Edinburgh, I got a Facebook message from one of my old college roommates Asha whom I haven’t seen or heard from in a decade and invited me to come and see her in Aberdeen just about 2 hours north of Edinburgh. That’s the thing about social media, I used to think of it mostly as a tool for work and for feeling annoyed about inane posts about the sandwich you’ve eaten that day, but it’s really become a lifeline for me. I’ve come to appreciate how it can be such an invaluable tool to feel connected to friends and the people who love you when you’re out there alone, they share tips, cheer me on, like my inane posts about food and it feels for the first time since I’ve used Facebook, a real way for me to catch up with people I care about. So when Asha invited me up to visit, I knew I had to do it.

I found Asha and she's in Scotland! We're on a walk in Stonehaven to Dunnottar Castle. #TribePride #ChiO #CaryStreet
I found Asha and she’s in Scotland! We’re on a walk in Stonehaven to Dunnottar Castle. #TribePride #ChiO #CaryStreet
Beach in Aberdeen
Beach in Aberdeen
According to Asha, these guys make up Aberdeen's largest population.
According to Asha, these guys make up Aberdeen’s largest population.
This cute guy came right up to me during our Dunnottar walk.
This cute guy came right up to me during our Dunnottar walk.
I tried so hard to get a better shot of these Scots in their kilts -- HOT!
I tried so hard to get a better shot of these Scots in their kilts — HOT!
Aberdeen is the 3rd largest city in Scotland and it became immediately apparent that the city and its inhabitants suffer from a bit of low self-esteem, I think because Edinburgh is so damn beautiful and cultured and Glasgow has become a hip and more happening city. Well, let me tell you that I found it charming and the darker grey granite buildings weren’t depressing but added to the mystery you sense in Scotland and candidly, it didn’t matter because I’d hang out with my girl Asha anywhere. Asha and I had an epic catch up over wine, beers, great Scottish whisky and lots of food so clearly not everything changes after college. We did a day trip to acharming town called Stonehaven set on the coast, home to some adorable cows and the famous Dunnottar Castle. A note on Dunnottar, it’s a 15th Century fortress where some films were shot, including Franco Zeffirelli’s Hamlet made in 1990 starring Mel Gibson and Glenn Close. My taxi driver to the airport was Gibson’s body double for all of the horse riding scenes in that movie and had a 3 month brush with the Hollywood life and shared that “Mel Gibson’s a bit of an asshole (probably an understatement), Glenn Close was as nice and as professional as could be (TRIBE PRIDE!) and Zeffirelli was one of the nicest, kindest and most generous people. The driver also told me another incredible story that Zeffirelli was a POW during WWII and his cell mate was a man from Aberdeen whom he hadn’t seen since their release and the driver took him to see this man who still lived in Aberdeen and the two of them had the most emotional reunion!  Zeffirelli, a legendary filmmaker claimed it was the highlight of his life.  And while my reunion with Asha was certainly not as long awaited nor as emotionally charged as Zeffirelli’s, it was still pretty damn special and so worth a trip to the great city of Aberdeen (I’m leading a pro-Aberdeen campaign).

I really loved Scotland. The experience is bit like drinking their whisky, it feels warm, a little dizzying and you leave wanting a bit more.

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Living La Vida London

It’s hard to believe that this was my first time in London since it’s one of those cities that everyone seems to have have stories about visiting or living there for what they’ve often described as one of the “best times of (their) lives”.

Tower Bridge
Tower Bridge

But before I share my own London tales, I have to begin with what was my most bizarre passport control situation to date.  I arrived in Standsted Airport, one of London’s smaller regional airports, which is often preferable especially when Heathrow is a notoriously challenging airport to navigate.  The line was short and there was only one baggage claim area, so I was feeling pretty great about Standsted.  That is, until I got to the passport control window and the immigration officer began asking me a series of personal questions that I found not only intrusive but downright ridiculous.  Here’s an annotated version of our exchange:

Officer:  “So, I see that you’ve been traveling the past few weeks.  What brings you to London?”

Me:  “Yes, I’m lucky enough to travel in Europe for the summer!”

Officer:  “I see.  What is your occupation?  Are you married?”

Me:  “Well, I worked for a media/entertainment company, but I don’t anymore.  Um…no not married.”

Officer:  “Why did you leave your job? Do you have a boyfriend? How long are you traveling?”

This interrogation  went on for about 10 more minutes until I found myself confessing to this officer about how hard it is to meet a good guy and that it was a really tough decision to leave my job but it felt right and as if that wasn’t enough, I also had to let her know how much money I had in my personal bank account.  WTF!! I realize that everyone is locking down on immigration, but this seemed over the top.

OK, back to the part where I love London.  Thanks to Facebook, my old high school friend Tuyen generously connected me with her sister and I stayed the first couple of nights with a wonderful couple named Jolie and Zack and their adorable baby girl Lavender.

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Westminster Abbey is enormous, impressive and makes me want to speak with an English accent.
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I mean, look at this place. It’s incredible.

It’s easy to see why so many people, especially New Yorkers, are obsessed with London.  There’s a familiar energy,  incredible ethnic diversity (in fact, I’m pretty sure I saw more interracial couples here than any place I’ve ever been), the hustle of people rushing through the streets, theater everywhere (side note:  if you’re wondering what The Game of Thrones cast does when they’re not shooting the show, they’re performing in London theater), restaurants and bars and yes, it’s expensive so it felt a bit like home, but much more scenic.  Sorry NYC, it’s just the truth.

Here are some visual highlights to my time in London Town.

Drinks at Gordon's Wine Bar and a delish dinner at Barrafina with the lovely Cassie Bowman!
Drinks at Gordon’s Wine Bar and a delish dinner at Barrafina with the lovely Cassie Bowman!
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The incredible gardens at Regent’s Park.
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Queen’s Garden inside Regent’s Park had the most insanely gorgeous rose garden I’ve ever seen. And yes, I did stop to smell the roses!

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Black swans!
Black swans!
Tower of London!
Tower of London!
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These houses inside the Tower square belonged to the Tudors
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This is where you can see the Royal Jewels.
This is where Anne Boleyn was executed by Henry VIII who was a total womanizing lunatic.
This is where Anne Boleyn was executed by Henry VIII who was a total womanizing lunatic.
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Camden Market on a typically dark cloudy London day
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The British Museum is enormous and free!
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Look kids, Big Ben (Parliament)!
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Inside the British Museum
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Trafalgar Square
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Bombay Pimm’s at the very delicious Dishoom recommended by literally everyone I know who’s ever been to London and now I will pay it forward and do the same.

I stayed a few days in Shoreditch, also recommended to me by many friends.  It’s a hip/happening neighborhood full of bars, street art, and as one friend described it “is bit more gritty” than other parts of the city.  I particularly enjoyed my lunch at Dishoom, an Indian restaurant that has an incredible local and US following and it did live up to the hype.  If anyone is visiting, I recommend you go to the one in Shoreditch for lunch where you’re less likely to deal with long lines.  I also made a new friend from Spain living in London and over a couple of beers we traded stories about work, travel, his love of Americans and our open/warm personalities, my love of Spain and what it’s like to live in London (not easy).

It’s impossible to see all of London in just five days, but I certainly got a good feel for the city thanks to new friends like Jolie and Zack who gave great recommendations, as well as so many of my friends from the U.S.  I’m excited to be part of the “I Love London” club and look forward to returning to this beautiful, big city.